Installing Ceramic Tile Floor
Drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4×12, however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into the existing home. Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as the professionals usually refer to the task, can be done by the homeowner. You can rent one for a day, a weekend or an even longer period of time for less than it costs to rent one. You can rent Drywall Lifts at hardware or home improvement stores. If everything is as it should be, furniture and items can be put back into the room. Before actually installing the tile, it is best to lay it out in the room to see how it will look. Slate, therefore, lends itself to give a rustic, weathered, and ancient look. Calculate the total square feet and divide by 32. The result should give you the number of 4x 8 sheets of drywall required for the job. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor barrier.
Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over the insulation on the outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed. Also, make sure metal protection plates have been installed to studding where sheetrock screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or electrical wire. The screws or nails should be installed such that they are slightly recessed and create a small dimple without breaking the paper. Typically I use 1.25 length screws or nails. I use this material because it’s: 1) Relatively thin, 2) Relatively lightweight, and 3) Rough on one side so the glue grabs hold of it well. The Jack can then be used to hold up the drywall to the ceiling while it is screwed/nailed into place. While the Joint compound is still wet, apply the fiberglass tape over the skim coat of Joint Compound. Use the Drywall lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place while screwing or nailing them to the ceiling.
Start with the ceiling as this will allow the sheets on the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. Drywall should be applied from the top down, with the sheets hung perpendicular to the floor joists or studs. For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to apply the large sheets of drywall over the doors and window openings and cut out the excess later. The labour cost involved with natural slate can be in excess of the cost of the entire job, including materials, had tiles been used instead. Note: When applying the mud over the tape and screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. Make sure the seam is centered under the tape. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over the surface of a seam using a 6 wide taping knife. If the seam is wide, apply a liberal amount of joint compound to fill it.
It is best to fasten the screws/nails to the edges of the drywall first and then fill in the field afterwards. To determine how much material to order, measure all of the surface area, starting with the ceilings and then the walls. If mudding and taping are to be performed then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner, however these tasks require some practice and artistry. Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be required for Taping and Mudding. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most Do-it-Yourself drywall projects. Once the drywall has been installed, corner bead should be applied to all outside edges. This valley typically represents the first 3 or 4 inches from the edge of the corner.